Thursday, January 24, 2013

Canada ice trip part 1

I still had four weeks of vacation left at the end of 2012 and was contemplating where to best spend them.  After a long break due to my finger surgery all I wanted was to climb as much as possible and not wait for good conditions or weather. Three weeks of ice climbing in Canada seemed like a safe bet 

Day 1 - The Replicant
We wanted to warm up by climbing the Professor falls but before we knew it we were breaking trail up to the Trophy wall. With no rock gear the only feasible route seemed to be the Replicant (it was pretty thin and some rock gear wouldn’t have hurt on the first pitch)

The Trophy Wall up high

Breaking trail was definitely one of the cruxes of the day. A lot deeper than it looks...

The Trophy Wall with Terminator/T2 on the left and The Replicant on the right. Sea of Vapours had no ice at all.

Day 2 - Cragging at Haffner Creek

Day 3 - The Real Big Drip
We all stopped at the picture of The Real Big Drip in the guide book thinking we must climb it. So, we took the rental car for test drive to the Ghost. Unfortunately we ran out of gas and only got to the base of the climb at 12:30.

Sam stayed down to take pictures while Niko and I went as far as we could before it got dark. The first pitch had really bad rock and felt pretty hard

The second ice pitch was quite straight forward

The third pitch was fun but the belay was hidden under the ice so I kept climbing the ice chimney and established myself on the second ice.

By this time it was getting dark and we decided to join Sam who had started digging huge hole down below to stay warm. This one we have to go back and finish to the top!

To be continued...

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